Latvia Itineraries

Latvia sits in the middle of the three Baltic states, facing the Baltic Sea with more than 500 kilometres of sandy coastline and stretching inland across forests, lakes, and rolling farmland that preserve one of Europe's most intact traditional landscapes. A small country of 1.9 million people, it combines Baltic-German, Russian, Swedish, and distinctly Latvian cultural layers built on a pre-Christian folk tradition that remains extraordinarily vibrant — Latvian folk songs (dainas) alone number over 1.2 million, one of the largest bodies of folk poetry in any language. Riga, the capital, is the largest city in the Baltics and one of Europe's most architecturally rewarding. Its medieval Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a labyrinth of cobbled streets, step-gabled merchant houses, and gothic churches including the 123-metre spire of St. Peter's. But Riga's true architectural glory lies in its Art Nouveau district, where around a third of the city centre's buildings were constructed in this flamboyant early-20th-century style — more Art Nouveau architecture than anywhere else in Europe, much of it designed by Mikhail Eisenstein (father of the film director Sergei). Walking down Alberta Iela on a summer morning is a passage through one of the most inventive streetscapes on the continent. Riga's Central Market, housed in five former Zeppelin hangars, is one of Europe's largest, offering insight into traditional Latvian ingredients — black bread, smoked fish, pickles, wild forest mushrooms, and fresh curd. The city's craft beer, coffee, and food scenes have transformed dramatically in recent years. Beyond Riga, Latvia opens into gentler landscapes. Jūrmala, just 25 minutes away, is the Baltic beach resort of choice, with a long sandy beach and wooden Art Nouveau villas set in pine forests that give it a distinctly turn-of-the-century feel. Sigulda, an hour north-east, is Latvia's Switzerland, with medieval castles, toboggan runs, and the Gauja National Park, the country's largest. Cēsis preserves a stunning medieval castle and old town, while Rundāle Palace — designed by Bartolomeo Rastrelli, the architect of the Winter Palace in St. Petersburg — is Latvia's answer to Versailles and one of the most beautiful baroque palaces in Northern Europe. The western region of Kurzeme has wild coastline, traditional fishing villages, and Liepāja, a post-industrial port city with a thriving alternative music scene. Latgale in the south-east has a distinct Catholic and Slavic character, with thousands of lakes and some of the country's warmest summer weather. Latvian cuisine is seasonal and forest-rich: rye bread is almost sacred, soups like cold beetroot aukstā zupa and pea soups are summer staples, and smoked fish, sprats, and game feature prominently. The Song and Dance Festival, held every five years and included in UNESCO's Intangible Heritage list, brings together 40,000 participants and is one of Europe's most moving cultural events.